THE RESIDENCESERVICES
Nails Theatre
On 7 September, WIRED Middle East published a health report by Bianca Carrera asking a question a lot of clients in this city have started asking at the nail desk: what is TPO, and could it be in your gel manicure? The magazine came to March14 Beauty Residence in Dubai for the answer from a salon's side. Our thanks to WIRED Middle East, and to Bianca, for the question.

TPO is a photoinitiator. It is the component that reacts to the light of a nail lamp and makes a gel formula harden on the nail, which is why it has been common in gel polishes and builder systems for years.
As WIRED Middle East sets out, Europe has banned TPO from gel polish over fertility concerns. The magazine's reporting also makes the regional picture clear: Dubai has the laboratory capability to test for it, but how present it still is across UAE salons is not publicly known.
That gap between a European ban and an unknown local picture is exactly why the question is worth asking out loud rather than assuming.
The magazine reported that March14 did not have to swap out any products in response, because the Residence had selected TPO free systems from the outset.

Founder Ruby Barreau explained the reasoning to the magazine.
"Concerns surrounding TPO had been known within the professional industry for some time, so we deliberately selected brands offering alternative curing technologies."
And then the line that sits underneath the whole approach:
"We should not wait for a legal ban before questioning an ingredient."
That is not a reaction written after a headline. Selecting around an ingredient before a regulator forces the issue is slower and more expensive at the point of setting up a salon, and it is invisible to clients until a story like this one runs.
This is the part of the WIRED Middle East report worth repeating honestly, because it cuts against easy marketing. A TPO free label does not by itself make a formulation harmless, hypoallergenic or free of every other risk. The piece points to acrylates such as HEMA, used in some gel and artificial nail products, where uncured product touching the skin can trigger allergic contact dermatitis.
In other words, one removed ingredient is not a safety certificate. What matters is the whole system, how it is applied, whether it is fully cured, and whether product is kept off the skin around the nail. That is a technique question as much as a chemistry one, and it is the thinking behind the Healthy Nails Lab inside the Nails Theatre.
The useful takeaway for anyone booking a gel manicure in Dubai is that these are reasonable questions to ask anywhere, and any salon should be able to answer them without hesitation: which system is being used on your nails, whether it is TPO free, whether it contains HEMA, and how the team avoids leaving uncured product on the skin.
If a salon cannot tell you what it is putting on your hands every three weeks, that is information in itself.
Choosing systems this way is what the March14 Chart of Excellence exists to formalise. Rather than building the Residence around a single brand, systems are selected against technique, performance, safety, innovation, personalisation and quality of result, which is how a TPO free decision gets made years before it becomes a news story.
It also explains why journalists increasingly call the Residence for a view rather than an announcement. Fast Company Middle East recently asked Ruby why founders have become part of the trust architecture of a company, and this is what that looks like in practice: in beauty, the client usually cannot evaluate the formula on the table, so somebody has to have done it for her. Vogue Arabia came to the same atelier to ask about nail health and the return of the Japanese manicure.
The Nails Theatre sits inside March14 Beauty Residence, 3,500 square feet across two floors in Al Quoz 3, Goshi City 2, Dubai. Appointments can be made here or on +971 58 554 6222.
With thanks to WIRED Middle East and to Bianca Carrera. Read the full report on wired.me.
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